I've always been a little indifferent when it comes to cookies, not so much in the eating of them -- heavens no -- as in the making. Now I understand that not every quirk and preference is the direct result of some childhood trauma or event, but if I had to pinpoint a cause for this particular one, I'd say it started with Anne.
My dad, if you'll recall, has five brothers and one sister. All his brothers are married and all of them farm in the same community, which means I had a lot of aunts, in a range of ages, in close proximity. Anne, who's married to my dad's youngest brother, was singularly fascinating to me because she seemed more glamorous babysitter, like my cousin Angie, than aunt. Plus she liked horses and grew up on a ranch, which made her way cooler than Angie. And one day she invited me over to bake chocolate chip cookies!
I don't remember how old I was or how experienced a cookie baker, only that it was a banner day, but cookie baking seemed an altogether too tedious process after that. You don't have to handle cake or quick bread batter -- you pour it in the pan and you're done. Bread dough is more involved, but you knead it in one big mass and your hands only get sticky once.
And cookies are sensitive, especially chocolate chip cookies: there's a very small window between underdone and overdone. And who wants an overdone chocolate chip cookie? Even when perfectly done, I'd much rather have a soft, chewy chocolate crinkle, which made an annual appearance at our house during Christmas, or one of grandma's molasses cookies, than the kind of crisp chocolate chip cookie my dad prefers.
But then Frieda Wollman's Perfect Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies made an appearance in the Zion Mennonite Cookbook. If you want a general idea of what these cookies are like, imagine how a Keebler Soft Batch chocolate chip cookie would melt in your mouth after being warmed slightly in the microwave. Frieda's cookies are like that without the microwave, and they became a staple in my college care packages. I hate to say it, but my roommate and I sacrificed a lot of those cookies in the name of manhunting (however unsuccessfully), especially freshman year.
Eventually they did help snag a boyfriend in a roundabout way. Justin came over to help me study one night shortly after we started spending time together, and I wanted to impress him -- only I made a mess of it because, you see, I decided to halve the recipe. I don't know why -- if I was running short on butter or eggs or some other essential ingredient -- but the problem was that I halved everything but the flour. The kindest thing to say is that they came out biscuit-like. However, he still ate them and a year or so later we got married, so it worked out okay in the end.
Frieda's recipe reigned uncontested over all other chocolate chip cookies until last year when the New York Times published this much-circulated article about one man's quest for perfection in cookie form. So I made them and they were good. Very good, thus planting the seed of doubt, which could only yield one thing: a showdown.
Before I reveal the results, I have to offer a few disclaimers. (1) Frieda's cookie dough aged 72 hours in the fridge; the NYT dough aged 48. Ideally both would have aged 36, but life happens. (2) I used all-purpose flour in both recipes, though the NYT calls for a mixture of flours. (3) I am currently without a food scale, so for the NYT recipe, I assumed about 4.4 ounces in a cup of flour. (4) Even with a thermometer, the temperature on my oven is extremely difficult to control, and I think that explains the difference between how the NYT cookies turned out when I made them in Omaha as opposed to the scary 1950s-cooks-100-degrees-too-hot oven in Waconia. (5) I added a bit of salt to Frieda's recipe.
So all I'm saying is I'd like to conduct this trial again with fewer variables and a few tweaks here and there. Even so, preliminary results do seem to indicate a favorite.
Now on to the reckoning. Thanks to Justin for documenting and overseeing the voting process.
Jason's vote: Frieda. "This is the best chocolate chip cookie I've ever had; does Susie know when my birthday is? No. I'm serious."
Brett's vote: Frieda. "I like the flavor of the other one (NYT), but the soft pillowy texture of this one really makes it."
Maren's vote: NYT. "It's a tough call, but I think I like the flatter ones better." Note her perfect, glowing, post-run skin.
Mike had a tough time. After an initial vote for NYT, he reconsidered and went with Frieda. "It's a really tough call, but I think I like this one better."
Chris' vote: NYT. "This one's better."
Justin's vote (not pictured): NYT. "I like salt."
As for me, it should be obvious. I have a history with Frieda -- who is one heck of a lady -- and her cookie recipe. And yes I like the complexity, the salty chewiness, the sophistication of my second favorite chocolate chip cookie, but I can't turn my back on my first love. Yum.
But don't take my word for it -- have a little showdown yourself and let me know which one's left standing.
Frieda's Perfect Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies
(from the Zion Mennonite Cookbook)
1 cup butter
1/4 cup sugar
3.4 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1package (3.4 ounces) instant vanilla pudding mix
2 1/4 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
(I also added about 1/2 teaspoon salt)
2 cups chocolate chips
1. Cream butter and sugars in a mixing bowl until light.
2. Add pudding mix, eggs and vanilla.
3. Combine flour and soda and add to the creamed mixture.
4. Mix well.
5. Fold in chocolate chips.
6. Drop by teaspoonful onto an ungreased cookie sheet. (I kept the dough in the fridge for a couple days and made the cookies slightly bigger than teaspoon size.)
6. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes or until lightly browned
Yield: Between 3 and 4 dozen.
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